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Saturday, 5 April 2008

Peaks of Patagoni



Dramatic landscapes provided me with a continual camera moment throughout. It is late spring in the region and the weather was cooperative with a lot of sunshine. This however is a land where the unexpected is the norm, so i came prepared for occasional wind and rain. After a rest at the lovely Hotel Neruda and a city tour in Santiago, i flew south to Punta Arenas. There i transferred 2 hours by coach to Puerto Natales at the Patagonia steppe. I welcomed an overnight stay at the spartan but cozy Charles Darwin Hotel and a fabulous dinner of king crab and fresh salmon. The following day i sailed several hours on the cutter vessel 21 de Mayo up the fjord of Ultima Esperanza. Stopped for a hike around the fabulous Serano Glacier and a lunch on lamb at a remote cattle ranch. Later I boarded zodiac boats for a thrilling ride to the lodge located inside Torres del Paine National Park. Hosteria Pehoe is rustic for a rate of $200 per room but it lies on the edge of a turquoise glacial lake with an indescribably beautiful view. The backdrop of the spiny tall rugged mountains capped with ice was as vivid as a postcard. Three days were spent touring the park.

I was able to photograph the wildlife including guanaco's of the llama family, foxes, flamingo, sea lions, black neck swans, condors, cormorants and more. Several in the group arranged a nocturnal hike to view the elusive puma but none were spotted. Free time was provided for horse riding and boating to magnificent Grey Glacier which was a delight. Some people opted for an arduous 8 hour hike up the famous towering peaks known as The Torres, however i declined on this due to being exhausted. I then flew on to Puerto Montt and checked into the first class Hotel Gran Pacifica for four glorious nights to explore Chile's lake region. It began in Puyehue National Park with the backdrop of two spectacular and very active volcano's named Osorno and Calbuco. The afternoon was spent at the hot springs area of Aguas Calientes for a soak in the 110ยบ crystal clear water. Here i participated in an optional canopy cable swing adventure through the treetops which was more fun than a barrel of monkeys. On the enroute back to the hotel, i visited a handicraft market with excellent buys on alpaca sweaters and blue lapis lazuli stoned jewelry.

The next day i rafted the powerful Petrohue River on class 3 and 4 white water rapids. Four people fell out of an overturned raft but wet suites provided protection for them from the frigid water and expert guides in kayaks were able to quickly retrieve all. This excursion for me was the highlight of the trip. On day 8 i enjoyed a catamaran cruise along the shores of All Saints Lake also named Emerald Lake for it's vibrant color in Peulla. The lush green forest here is set in the Andes foothills and covers 220,000 acres. Managed to photographed a succession of beautiful and powerful waterfalls cascading over volcanic boulders of the ice capped Osorno. The travel experience culminated back in Santiago with a farewell feast of seafood at a deluxe local restaurant. Prior to airport departure, i toured the Cavas del Maipo Winery. There i enjoyed a lunch of fantastic BBQ steak and imbibed on endless wine, including several vintages which rank among the nations most esteemed exports, i felt like a king at his banquette.

Ten days was sufficient here to see an eyeful, I've had my fill of salmon and lamb for a lifetime and reflect back on a journey well done. There was a wonderful group of 35 participants, most who met as strangers and returned as lifelong friends. The cost of this trip was $2397 inclusive of taxes which included round trip air from Miami and all internal flights. The $100 Chilean entry visa was extra. It was a good value and the guides throughout were excellent. I have toured a few countries now. The beauty here lies simply in the remoteness; pristine and unscarred nature in her finest glory. In Patagonia God created a perfect juxtaposition of New Zealand fjords, Switzerland's Alps and British Columbia's forests and lakes. Chile is a absolute delight on all of the human senses. It was the Incan word for land far away. I felt far removed in this narrow land that stretches to the end of the world yet was able to experience all the comforts of home. It certainly exceeded my expectations and I recommend it for any intrepid travelers list of must-see destinations of a lifetime.